Italy - on arrival

We arrived at Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Rome, Fiumicino) to a crisp welcome. The sun was shining but the air was fresh and very cool! We had left behind temperatures close to 30 degrees for 10-15 degrees, so we felt the chill a bit.

Our little Ford Focus was waiting to be picked up and we had our directions to follow to send us on the way to Valle San Giovanni in Abruzzi. Fortunately the owners of our little cottage were able to give directions which meant we did not have to drive through central Rome and we could skirt the city following freeways. We had decided to keep our Rome experience till the end of our holiday and head straight for Villa Casale.

Leaving Rome behind we climbed higher and higher into the Apennine chain of mountains. We were headed for the highest point – the Gran Sasso d’Italia – the Big Rock of Italy, which is the gateway to the region of Abruzzi, a mountain of rock that soars 2,912 metres above sea level. In fact we didn’t have to go over it as there was a 10 klm tunnel dug through the rock and so we actually went under the Gran Sasso, but not before getting some lovely photos of the recently fallen snow. Every turn in the highway was a new postcard picture of houses tumbling down hills, church spirals and fortress walls. All of these covered with a dusting of snow about 2-3 feet deep. With the sunshine glittering off the fall it was just picture perfect.

We travelled past L’Aquila which is the largest town in the area and headed for Teramo, the town closest to our village. On arrival at the village we met Paolo Riccioni the local grocery store owner and he showed us to our lodgings. They were charming – a lovely wood stove to keep us warm, gas central heating and more than enough of all the comforts to keep us happy. My sister, Helen, had arranged for a welcome pack of wine, cheese, prosciutto, sausages, bread and cake and so we were able to settle in to a nice warm meal and a glass of wine on arrival. And then off we went to explore where we were.

Teramo is a small regional centre but it has all you would need including a good sized shopping mall with all the modern conveniences. It is also in the area of the most ancient archaeological sites in Italy and so it is rich with culture and tradition…and no-one speaks English! This proved to be quite a challenge for us but one we enjoyed and seemed to get along well enough. We picked up a few essential phrases and managed to be served what we asked for in the restaurants and shops, even if it did take a little bit of fine negotiation.

Here are some pictures of the trip and also our little cottage in the woods! The one of us in the snow is out of focus – but I think you ‘get the picture’ despite the blur! - the focus must have been frozen!

The Great Pyramids of Giza

Of course one of the reasons anyone goes to Cairo is to visit the pyramids, and so – aboard our camels ( and a pony for Kate), with our trusty 15 year old guide and 10 year old camel puller, we made our way to the 3 Great Pyramids and the 6 lesser ones. No routine tourist tour this one, we are on our own with our junior guide.

Now riding a camel gives you a totally different perspective. It’s up high and there is lots to see. Let me also agree with our friend Barb Notte, who told us before we left for Cairo that camels raise halitosis to a totally new level of disgusting! – And let’s not even mention the other end!

The pyramids are right on the edge of the city. In fact, I’m sure that were the reserve not fenced, the housing would go right up to (& probably over) them. The trek is a long one, but well worth it. Sights a plenty in the local streets and along the way inside the reserve. After the first 15 minutes or so we have adjusted to the pace and the motion and are happily taking snaps of all and sundry.

Inside the reserve, we approach the pyramids. They’re quite awesome really. So big, so old, so well preserved, and you wonder how they did it.

By the time we reach them, it is dusk and the reserve is supposed to be closed. We can only catch a distant glimpse of the Sphinx on our way back. All along the way, the Tourist and Antiquities Police use the opportunity to give our guide a hard time and enhance their income. But it’s all part of the game and we return tired, dusty and so very glad of the experience.

The same evening we go to dinner on the a cruise boat on the Nile, complete with a generously proportioned belly dancer and floor show. Of course, never backward in coming forward, two of the sheik’s hareem end up as part of the show, leading the dance around the boat.

We sleep well.

Memphis

The alabaster sphinx at Memphis is one of the last monuments of the area. There is also part of the great statue of Ramses II kept here under cover. Memphis was the capital of Egypt before Cairo. Here is a link to more information on Memphis
Of course our guide once again was a font of knowledge about Memphis and told us all the information you will read on the link. I couldn't resist putting this picture of Ron on the blog! Not many days you get to kiss a sphinx!
One of the things that was most concerning about Egypt was the corruption of the Police. I found myself a couple of them and it only cost me 20 Egyptian pounds to have a photo taken with them!

Sakkara

We visited the stepped pyramid at Saqqara. This was the 'original' pyramid built before the great pyramids at Giza. It was a sort of prototype really. Information on this pyramid and the other sights to see at Sakkara (click link)
Our guide told us the history of the area in quite some detail and it was really interesting and I am so glad I don't have to take exams in Egyptology! Just remembering who did what and in which century BC is a major accomplishment but Tarak (our guide) had an encyclopaedic knowledge of it all.
Ron had his first experience of sitting on a camel and we think he really looks the part of a regular Sheikh!

Egypt - First stop the hostel

Our recent trip to Egypt was fun and our first experience of the country was the King Tut Hostel where we slept for four nights! Well I am not sure we slept but we went to bed and listened to the cars and people in the streets 8 stories below! I didn't think noise could carry that well! However most days we were exhausted from flat out sightseeing and expired for a few hours at a time. Here is a pic of us in the lounge/dining area. The hostel was in fact quite comfortable and well serviced and the guy that runs it was extremely helpful arranging tours and a guide and bus. We really did see an 'authentic' side to Egypt that I doubt we would have seen if we had been on a big bus trip. Of course our highlight was that we were sharing the holiday with Erin who had arrived from Aus a few days before and was very excited at the prospect of visiting yet another country on her trip.
Some of the people from the SIP team also came along and it was nice to have company and be able to chat about the whole experience. In the next post I will put up some of the highlights!

Some pots

One of the girls is having a birthday - hope she likes these pots!

My art teacher, Rebecca, is teaching me about perspective so this was a practice. I can tell they are round so I hope you can!

Flamingos again

Well here are some more flamingos - I just like them really! This is my first piece in acrylics and I am not too sure of this medium at all - stumbling through it really. So expect that things will improve as I practice more. Ron says it is a great start. I'll take it to my art class and ask how I can improve my technique....I guess it is just practice, practice, practice...like most things!

An Arabian Fairytale Part Three: The Princess attends a wedding.

After the eventful weekend at the camel races the princess returned to the desert camp to face the reality of the week ahead. The day after the camel races she started the real work of supporting the Sheikh and providing the household with travel funds. Already there are plans for a trip to Cairo and then off to Italy – the Sheikh has suggested the princess may need to independently fund the travel program while he takes care of the bigger issues in the financial sector!

The desert camp has many places where the members of the local tribes can be educated. The pinnacle of learning, the ivory tower, the hallowed halls of wisdom are located at the Islamic Institute, the Men’s College of the United Arab Emirates University. The Princess was attracted to this calm and enriching environment and offered to provide her services to the Human Resources Department to assist in the professional development of the staff. Her offer was accepted and she commenced work the day after the races.

On the first day she met an honored and esteemed wise man who was teaching his craft. He weaved stories strange and wondrous for three days. The Princess attended the teachings and met up with many people from across the world that had come to hear him preach on the art of “Recruitment and Selection”. It was a very different perspective from one the Princess had heard before, with a distinctly local flavor. Discussions of ‘wasta’ (nepotism) and strange ethics and different approaches….the Princess was aghast and bemused!

Throughout the week the Princess met with people from Somalia, Syria, Jordan and Lebanon; from Canada, America, Britain and France; from all the Gulf countries and Northern Africa. And she met some local people, Emiratis, who made her feel very welcome indeed. In fact one young woman, Shamma, veiled and swathed in black from head to toe, asked if the Princess would attend the wedding of her brother on the Thursday of that week. “Bring your friends”, she said, “Not just one but two. All are welcome, come, come, come!”

What to wear? What to buy as a gift? The hareem had discussions late into the night and shopped at the Al Ain Mall till they could stand no more. Nerissa of Victoria and Moraig of Kiwiland accompanied the Princess. They arrived at the wedding in their finery and were greeted by Shamma. She was in a long evening dress of white organza with layers of purple frills and flounces. No abbaya or shayla and just a delicate purple wrap around her shoulders. What a transformation! The Princess would never have recognized her – no longer the shy veiled girl from the office, but a worldly woman with confidence and poise.

The evening passed with yet another large platter of goat (cooked whole) and continuous servings of pastries and biscuits, coffees and teas, perfumes and bakhoor. Dancers had been hired to perform and a singer entertained the all woman audience. Bedouin Emerati women filled the tables in their burqah with hennaed hands and painted palms or dressed in sensational western styled gowns discreetly covered by gauzy overgowns. The walls of the celebration hall were lined with silk and gold; lights sparkled off every surface and a stage was set that emulated the court of Cleopatra with a catwalk and raised dancing area. The feasting went on into the night. The bride arrived escorted by her brother and was paid a visit by her father and cousins. It was strange having the men in the women’s tent and some of the more traditional women immediately covered their head, shoulders and arms and some left, upset that the men had come into the women’s environment. The bride sat terrified and shaking on the podium for all to see. It was a strange ritual and after some time the Princess and the ladies of the hareem left.

After a few days Shamma visited the Princess in her office and bestowed upon her some gifts – to thank her for coming to the wedding! A handbag, a dress and a candle – the Princess remains speechless and is sure there will be follow up to this installment of the Arabian fairytale.

PS. There will be no photos of the wedding – they were not allowed! Although there was an official photographer and the Princess has ways and means……….we will see!

Some pictures of the camel races

Here are just a few of the sights at the camel races recently. At the Hospitality tent - VIPs only of course, the Sheik and one of the hareem get some hands on experience with the local tucker (baked goat meat) - No carving knives - so do your best with what you have! That's Nerissa on the right, and Ismail with his son Yunis.Back behind the race track, there is a small culltural village with lots of things happening. Below you see Cheryl (the Princess) with one of the camels; a local weaver, busy on a rug; and some boys tending their falcons.

Trackside, there is more entertainment, with some tradtitional dancing.
But the most amazing feats of the day were still to come.

Picture, if you will, a dozen camels racing towards you - appearing in the distance out of the dust cloud. Then picture appearing out of the haze and racing beside them, oblivious of all around, two dozen landcruisers, a camera truck and two tourist buses - all racing alongside the camels, lest they miss one bit of the race.

And then, after the finish line, the boy riders leap from their backs to mix with all and sundry on the track, with the camels (now riderless) still thundering through to their handlers. And surveying all, a local Bedouin, rifle in hand, in the guests of honour seating (keeping an eye on his camel I suppose?)

The Arabian Fairytale Part Two. The Princess and the Sheikh go to the races

The Sheikh and the Princess returned from the land of Ataturk refreshed and replenished and happy. Instead of the Dubai Factory Outlets the Sheikh had delivered the Grand Bizarre in Istanbul. The Princess was humbled by this abundance and generosity and quite frankly couldn’t believe her luck with the shopping in the halls and alleyways, the souks and bazaars of the ancient land. Blessed with a leather coat, pashmina, antique kilim bag, beautiful ceramics, and a reunion with her friend from the land afar, the Princess was content to return to the desert and wait for her next adventure

Not two weeks on the Sheikh is again restless and wanting to show his Princess more of his magnanimous beneficence. He has arranged for a new Magic Flying Carpet (MFC) – after all, the last model had left much to be desired. So he called in a genie from the land of Al Futaim (Honda Dealer in Al Ain) and this genie, Hashem by name, produced a beautiful new MFC with sunroof, cruise control, climate conditioning, 6 stacker CD player and all the mod cons. A golden MFC – a reflection of the true love the Sheikh has for the Princess and an acknowledgement that the Princess must have nothing but the very best in MFC’s.

“Let’s go to the Camel races in Sweihan” said the Sheikh. “It is the 19^th anniversary of the races and there is bound to be a celebration befitting a beautiful Princess. Gather together the hareem, bring along suitable chaperones and we will take the golden MFC into the desert”. So the princess called on Nerissa of Victoria and Moraig of Kiwiland and her companion Annette the young and thin, and the caravan left the oasis to venture into the desert.

In the town of Sweihan the camel owners, jockeys and their precious camels have assembled at the local racetrack. There are also colourful characters from “The History of Sweihan – Heritage and Culture”. There are carpet makers, metal workers, weavers, cooks and even a dhow captain with his dhow floating in its own lake (fed by water tankers to assuage the evaporation of the 35+C heat!). A group of young falconers, all arrogance and class, pose with their magnificent avian hunters. Dancers sway to the rhythmic drumbeats and tympanic of the tambourine. Youngsters play their games amidst the cacophony of sound and the dust of the desert. Men dance an age old chant and challenge their counterparts. A young man with a rifle in hand negotiates the territory between the two groups. The princess is overawed and the ladies of the hareem are aghast.

On entry to the race course the camel herders observed the caravan and immediately directed the Sheik, his attendants and the hareem to the VIP dining enclosure. All the important racing identities had gathered to share a meal; Emerati men in their sparkling dish dash, bedu dressed to kill (literally – they carried rifles and knives!), the armed forces, the police, camel owners and camel jockeys. A few expat guests were afforded good seats in the tent and we were shown to our table. Mountainous platters of food were spread around a large desert tent. Beautiful salads were laid out and on lifting the gleaming silver dome on our table a whole baby goat had been prepared and settled in a large bowl of rice and cashew nuts. The princess had some difficulty looking at the head of the goat and also consuming the meat of it’s thighs! In fact the princess couldn’t eat the thighs while the goats eyes were looking at her. The Sheikh however attacked the goat with aplomb and made short work of his appetite. All washed down with a glass of lemonade. On looking around the assembled crowd the hareem noted that the next table had been served a camel haunch, complete with hump of solid fat and the young men were going at it with their bare hands as if it may be their last meal. This meal was an Arabian Feast – a meal to remember.

The entourage moved on to the cultural activities. The Princess patted a camel while the ladies of the hareem stood agog. Annette, the young and thin, made the acquaintance of some bearded water well attendants, while Moraig of Kiwiland sized up the home made carpets for her suite at the Intercontinental. Nerissa of Victoria and the Sheikh recorded all the days activities on their magic digital image makers.

And then the finale – the camel races. Now what a spectacle and the camels and jockeys are really not the most spectacular part at all. The Princess did note it was very strange this sport of racing camels and she remarked on the young boys jumping down from the camels before they had come to a halt, the trainers racing after the camels to stop them and the obvious dangers of being trampled. However what was most entertaining was the traffic moving along next to the race. Twenty or more large 4WD’s and two coaches raced along the side of the track to ensure the camel racing enthusiasts they carried had a camel’s eye view of the race. Jostling for position and racing at top speed meant the camels were nearly obscured by the dust. At races end, to ensure they then had poll position for the next race, they would turn around and speed back to the starting line.

The ladies of the hareem decided enough was enough. Moraig of Kiwiland was ‘shattered’, Annette the young and thin had ‘had enough’ and Nerissa of Victoria had begun wilting in the heat. The princess also decided she had dutifully celebrated the camel racing anniversary well enough and urged the Sheikh to return to the desert camp where she could clean herself of the desert dust and quench her burning throat with the fermented juice of the grape. The Sheikh led the hareem out into the desert and the caravan returned to the home oasis. Another wonderful day in Arabia.